30 September, 2021
There is a type of restaurant that shows up for its category while at the same time utterly transcending its category, and Laurelhurst Market is among the best of those. For years I treated Laurelhurst simply as the answer to the “where do I get a great steak” question, but recent visits have reminded me that, more broadly, Laurelhurst is the answer to “where should I eat in Portland, Oregon.” In order to achieve my ideal restaurant, requirements include impeccable sourcing of both meat and vegetable ingredients (down to the olive oil and salt, as local and ethical as possible); outrageously good vegetable dishes and salads; and accompaniments of wine, beer and cocktails that feel as if they prioritize great local options while staying true to the style of restaurant.
Laurelhurst has all this, along with absolutely fantastic steak, and while I dabble in vegetarianism I also cannot go without a little good red meat in my life. The steak and greens dish — a bavette steak when I visited most recently — is my go-to order, I’ve rarely missed this dish. It will always be cooked perfectly and the wait staff always makes the right recommendation as to how everything should be cooked. They can always be trusted.
Speaking of things to always remember about Laurelhurst Market: the deviled eggs. Please order the deviled eggs. They are beyond question the best in Portland (and we are not a city which is lacking in extraordinary deviled eggs). The filling is creamy and seasoned perfectly; the toppings have exactly the right amount and balance of flavor and texture.
Our meal on the day in question also included the crispy potatoes with an aji sauce and delicate thinly sliced cucumber pickles. I could have ordered a dozen other items and delighted over each one. Pace yourself, we overdid it on this particular visit and couldn’t order dessert.
We’ll be back.